EIHA 2023 – Potentialities and roadblocks in the textile industry

Insights into the sustainability and challenges of the hemp supply chain in Europe and how hemp fits into the circular economy: EIHA’s 20th Conference Report

About EIHA – European Industrial Hemp Association

Founded in Germany almost twenty years ago, EIHA – European Industrial Hemp Association – gathers a network of twenty-five European Union Member states, and twelve non-European countries, including members in North America and Pacific Asia. Overall, it acts on behalf of over two hundred and fifty members representing the hemp production chain. From seed to shelf.
EIHA’s aim is to represent the common interests of hemp farmers, producers and traders working with hemp. The task is to serve, protect, and represent the hemp sector in the European Union and in international policy making.
Each year the EIHA Conference takes place, directly involving the representatives of hemp organizations and associations over the topic of application and use of hemp in the different sectors of production.

The 20th EIHA Conference: on establishing hemp ecosystems around Europe and implementing investments

The 20th EIHA Conference focused on creating hemp ecosystems in Europe and implementing investments. The conference began with a discussion on regional hemp value chains and bioeconomy products. Estelle Delangle, representative of the European Hemp Cluster, presented the French case, while Ottilia Frolu of Caneparo brought the Eastern European tradition and the Romanian cluster for industrial hemp production to the table. Whitney Economics presented their latest year-long research which collected data on hemp in over thirty countries. The data revealed that the EU is ahead of the U.S. market. However, the European market still appears fragmented in its infrastructure and regulations. Despite new initiatives being promoted to develop the sector, efforts should be coordinated at the governmental level.

Stalk processing technologies and hemp in the building industry

Ralph Sagan from The True Green, Jason Finnis from Bast Fibers Technology, and Paul Benhaim from Hemp Plastic Company share their knowledge and experiences with hemp fibers and stem processing. Ingmar Nopens, the Process Manager of Cordeel Biotech, explains the company’s efforts to develop sustainable and biobased materials for the construction industry using industrial hemp as biomass. Cordeel Biotech’s mission is to contribute to the net-zero challenge by decarbonizing the construction sector.

EIHA Conference: Impact of the legalization of recreational cannabis – Cannabinoids and hemp food

The EHIA 2023 conference provides a detailed overview of the global markets for hemp seeds, flowers, and leaves, and their connection to the legalization of edibles for adults in Germany and the Czech Republic. As the debate surrounding edibles heats up, hemp food is emerging as a new and exciting market. The conference aims to explore the potential impact of cannabis legalization on the industry. According to Hempro Int, hemp is expected to become a major plant protein for direct consumption in processed and vegan foods. It will provide a sustainable, healthy, and locally-sourced alternative to plant-based meat, with positive effects on the body.

EIHA Annual Conference, the intervention of Dr Malgorzata Zimniewska – on the benefits on hemp

Dr Malgorzata Zimniewska, a professor at the Institute of Natural Fibers & Medicinal Plants, promotes hemp textiles as a sustainable and durable option. Hemp fabrics, made from the outer layer of the bast fibers of the hemp plant, are three times stronger than cotton, and do not have a higher production cost than other fabrics.
Hemp is a crop that can be grown on a small amount of land and can produce twice as much fiber per hectare as cotton. The Guide to Sustainable Textiles suggests that it is a sustainable choice for clothing and textiles. Cannabis sativa plants, which are used to produce hemp, grow well in mild climates, making Europe a favorable choice for its cultivation. Once harvested with a special machine, the fibers are separated from the stems through the retting process. The fibers are then carded into threads and cleaned to remove any impurities. Finally, the same process is used to make hemp fabric.

The advantages of using hemp textiles and its potential for growing

The Green Deal strategy is a plan to achieve climate neutrality in Europe by 2050 through reducing carbon dioxide emissions across various sectors like construction, biodiversity, energy, transportation, and food. Compared to cotton, hemp is a better crop for the environment as it requires less water for cultivation and production processes. It also uses minimal chemicals and can be grown in all soil types, which helps maintain or restore soil health. Hemp is resistant to pests and UV rays and uses its fallen leaves to produce biodegradable fertilizer. These remarkable properties of hemp make it an eco-friendly option and have contributed to the growing global interest in hemp products.

A sustainable method of cultivation presented at EIHA

Hemp fiber is a renewable resource with high potential in textile applications. Farmers can use sustainable cultivation methods to grow multiple cycles of hemp on the same land and plant it as part of crop rotation. Hemp fiber has antioxidant and antibiotic properties that prevent the growth of odor-causing bacteria on textiles. It is also antimicrobial, which makes it last longer than other textile fibers like cotton or polyester. Additionally, hemp clothes are resistant to microbes, mold, and fungi, and provide UV protection. Therefore, they are functional and pro-health fabrics.
Hemp fibers have the potential to positively impact various industries, such as paper, biodegradable plastics, construction, health foods, automobiles, chemical remediation and fuels due to its easy growth and versatility. Research has shown that by utilizing the qualities of the hemp plant, farmers can create a closed-loop farming system that minimizes waste during processing. However, to achieve this, it is essential to invest in improving the processing of raw hemp fiber into fabric and enhancing the production chain of converting raw hemp fiber into fabric.

Hemp’s circular economy and challenges in the textile industry, a focus at EIHA

If we want to move towards a circular economy and reduce the impact of climate change, hemp cultivation could be a viable solution. Hemp is a plant that grows quickly and absorbs approximately 0.67 tons of carbon dioxide per hectare from the atmosphere each year. Additionally, hemp products are designed to be recycled, produce less waste, and have a longer lifespan. By substituting carbon-intensive materials and products with hemp-based alternatives, we could make a meaningful contribution to reducing global carbon emissions.

Hemp cultivation in areas of lower fertility

Hemp is a versatile crop that can grow even in areas of low fertility. It is durable and can benefit soil and water regimes. The cultivation of hemp has allowed for a shift in agricultural subsidies from dairy, sweet corn, and wheat. This has promoted better connections and greater circularity between various economic sectors such as textiles, tourism, education, construction, and agro-forestry. By bridging the gaps between agricultural, industrial and economic uses, hemp can serve as a model for circularity and kick-start a circular economy. However, despite its many uses and ability to avoid pollution in the recycling cycle, the production of hemp textiles still presents challenges, particularly in the current production chain. Despite the progress made in scientific knowledge and marketable products, there is still work to be done to overcome these challenges.

EIHA about upscaling circular hemp systems

Although hemp textiles are more sustainable and produce less waste than other fabric alternatives such as cotton, the manufacturing process still involves the use of dyes that contain alum. This chemical is obtained from chemically treating alunite or natural clays.
For the hemp textile industry to truly become sustainable in the long run, there needs to be more investment to ensure that processes such as dyeing are carried out more responsibly.
One of the challenges faced by the industry is the lack of availability of machinery for the harvesting and processing of hemp at each level. Dr. Zimniewska explains that there is a need for machines for harvesting hemp fibers, turbines for fiber scutching, hacking machines for long fibers, wet spinning frames, and others to complete the technological chain. She further adds that the procurement of machinery can only be done by creating an effective system to encourage stakeholders to invest in hemp fiber and textile production.

The Common Agricultural Policy, EU regulations illustrated at EIHA’s Conference

In October 2020, it was announced that the European Parliament had voted in favor of increasing the authorized THC level in the field from 0.2% to 0.3%. After discussions to reach compromises between the three EU institutions, the final proposal of the Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) was adopted in 2021. The Council gave the final vote on November 24, and the new CAP will take effect on January 1st, 2023. The updated policy allows farmers to receive Direct Payments for hemp varieties registered in the EU Catalog with a maximum THC level of 0.3%. This change may increase the number of hemp varieties accepted under the EU Catalog. However, this level only applies if farmers want to receive direct payments. Therefore, in Europe, it is possible to plant hemp with THC levels higher than 0.3% if it is authorized by national regulations. Italy allows up to 0.6%, while the Czech Republic allows up to 1%.

The impact of hemp on the environment

Hemp can be recycled, the use of dyes, treatments, and other fibers makes post-consumer recycling challenging. Research shows that forty-eight percent of hemp clothing is reused as second-hand clothing, while the rest usually ends up in landfills. In the case of hemp textiles, recycled materials are usually downcycled instead of upcycled. Dr. Zimniewska also stresses the importance of raising society’s awareness of the role hemp textiles play in human health and environmental protection.

The lack of data when it comes to the value of a hemp-driven circular bio-economy

It’s evident that there is a lack of data that highlights the value of a hemp-driven circular bio-economy at local, regional, or global levels. Dr. Zimniewska suggests that one way to create more data and awareness on the scalable growth and market potential of the hemp textile landscape is by developing links between young and older generations. This can be done by including hemp in the education system through holistic approaches such as training courses. While hemp is agriculturally primed to be a long-term, sustainable solution, the entire textile industry needs to implement changes that reflect the shortcomings and focus on improving circularity, extending the life of products, and making full use of hemp’s natural ability to be repaired, remanufactured, and reused. These changes are crucial if we want to realize the full potential of the hemp textile industry.

Editorial team